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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.